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Showing posts from March, 2019

6. March 30 March 31 Viseu to Cohvilha

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30 March 2019 Drove south out of Viseu in the morning and broke up the two-and-a-half hour drive to Covilha by stopping in the small quaint village of Belmonte.   The bustle factor is winding down as we head further south and that works for me.   Belmonte is a picturesque little town and I’ll let the pictures do the talking. Arrived in Covilha the middle of the afternoon at another Pousada hotel – this one a repurposed sanitarium originally for TB patient’s way back before antibiotics.   Then in the 1970’s it housed, and I love this phrase, “hundreds of returning Portuguese”, and I assume they were returning from some African colony they got their butts kicked out of.    Nice euphemism.   The hotel is by itself on the side of a mountain four miles up a winding road out of town and the view is forever.   We’re high enough and close enough to Spain that I think we see it from our room.   The hotel, Pousada Serra de Estrela,   is a huge place that could have been the setting of

5. 28 March 29 March Barcelos and Viseu

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28 March Viseu Checked out of Porto today and before driving to Viseu in central Portugal, we sidetracked to Barcelos, about an hour’s drive north.   Maria had read that Barcelos has an open market every Thursday with one reviewer describing it as having few equals in all of Europe.   Once in Barcelos, we headed towards the center of town and finally found parking in a dusty sandlot.   Actually we were waved into the parking lot by one guy and another guy guided us into our space.    Although parking was clearly free I knew the guy expected a tip so I gave him 2 Euros, but he motioned for more.    Then the guy who waved us into the parking lot went after Jason who was thumbing through some change but before Jason could decide what was appropriate, the ballsy guy grabbed all the change right out of his hand.   Jason just threw up his hands in a WTF move while the two guys let us know by their looks that we were cheap bastards.    Should have been just funny but the w

4. 25, 26, 27 March Obidos, Porto, Vila de Conde

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25 March 2019 Drove from Lisbon to Porto yesterday.   Short cab ride to the airport to pick up rental car then 180 miles north to Porto on stellar highways with almost no traffic.   Very calm drive except for all the Audis blowing by us at Autobahn speeds.  Well maintained Interstate type highways were almost empty and I was reminded of the almost unnecessary Interstate 91 which runs through northeast Vermont.    One the way we stopped into Obidos, a “thoroughly charming” (as the guide book put it) town for a short walk and lunch.  Obidos is a very well preserved medieval village surrounded by the original wall from the 14 th century.  Back in the day at least one king of Portugal was married there although nowhere in the town are there signs of extravagance.  The area of the town is not much larger than a football field but I counted six churches with most of them out of commission and probably unnecessary since this town couldn’t have many residents other than those sel

3. 23 March 24 March 2019 Lisbon and Sintra

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24 March 2019 We took a train to the town of Sintra yesterday -   Sintra being the “must see” stop in all of Portugal. The train ride took us through miles of suburban neighborhood apartment complexes which I can forgive since few train rides out of town in the US are inspiring either.   Once in the beautiful country town of Sintra, the must see sight in is the Palais de Pena, situated on a mountain looking out over southwestern Portugal.   But first stop was the Palacio National in downtown Sintra which was remarkable mostly for the huge chimneys over the kitchen.   Two towers that could be seen from miles away.      The most captivating piece of art in Palacio National was a painting of Jesus in which he appeared to be a cross dresser.   No kidding, check out the photo down below.    We were not able to find anyone to inquire about this piece. The walk up to the Palais de Pena was, for an old fart like me, long and arduous.    Most people got up by bus or Tuk-Tuk, but t